Tyson Stelzer

To discover one of Champagne’s greatest assets one must look under the surface. Literally. Underneath the villages and the vineyards lies a deep layer of chalk. Into it are dug tens of kilometres of cellars, home to millions of slowly maturing bottles.

But the role of the chalk in producing Champagne is far more significant than this. For it is this same layer of chalk that forms the subsoil for the vines, ultimately responsible for the structure of one of the world’s greatest wines. Intense fruit and complex structure make these the finest sparkling whites that I have experienced.

Piper Heidsieck

NV Brut Very Good +

A standout amongst the NV offerings of Champagne. A nice wine of reasonable intensity, slightly tart apple fruit and medium length.

Milesime 1995 Excellent

Complex, fine bubbles and very intense. Dried apricots and apples. Creamy malolactic fermentation characters. Excellent length.

Veuve Clicquot

NV Brut Special Cuvee Very Good

Aged for four years in chalk cellars dug by the Romans some 2000 years ago. Dry with soft fruit, prominent yeast, a nice bead and good length. Not available in Australia.

Krug

Krug is in some respects the odd one out within the Champagne family. It makes no apology in taking a very different approach to that of every other producer. And certainly no apology is required, for its wines are amongst the very best that the region has to offer. Initial fermentation in old oak vats and bottle ageing for a very long time (the current release vintage wines are 1988, 1981 and 1979). Decadently intense. Exquisitely complex. Prestigious in every way… price included.

Krug Grande Cuvee Exceptional

An NV blend of six to eighteen year old fruit parcels, bottle aged for a further six years. An intensely complex nose is followed by a buttery/creamy palate with fine bubbles and superb aged characters that transcend all descriptors. Toasty butterscotch would be a crude attempt. Where this wine truly comes into its own is in its long, freshly acidic finish. A very big Champagne that deserves to be served with a rich main course.

Perrier-Jouet

Grand Brut Very Good

A very complex and full style, with sweet apples, a strong bead, and good length.

Moet et Chandon

Across its range, Moet is producing consistently good wines. But for me all others paled into insignificance in the presence of one. And, no, it was not one of the vintage labels…

Brut Premier Cru Excellent +

Fruit from Premier Cru vineyards; predominantly Chardonnay.
Medium golden. A complex nose, with intense aged notes.
The palate follows true, presenting toasty, rich butterscotch and honey, finishing with good length. A very classy wine indeed, and it is a travesty that magnums are sold from “cellar door” for under $90; 750s for less than half of this. Look out for the black label.