Tyson Stelzer

The Loire is a very large and varied region, and the diversity of its wines follows suite, both in style and in quality. Its vast array includes Muscadet and Chenin Blanc, both in dry and sweet styles, Cabernet Franc, sparkling whites and even the occasional sparkling red.

The majority of wines that I tasted were of a rather average standard, the highlight being the botrytised and sweet wines. I include here only four of the nine producers visited.

Sauvion et Fils

Reliable family producer near Vallet. Muscadet of structure and longevity. No Australian distribution, but they are keen to change this, given an opportunity (www.sauvion.fr).

1998 Muscadet Cardinal Richard Very Good

Light golden-yellow. A closed nose with hints of green apple and lemon. The palate is intense, with lemon, apple and mineral hints, finishing with a tart acidity that screams out for a decade in the cellar. The back palate is closed and a little short, but I suspect that it will open up with time. The remainder of the bottle was in very good shape days later, taking on hints of sweet banana. Needs a decade to come into its own.

Chateau Fesles

A large producer near Thouarce, with a wide range of varietals and labels. The botrytised and sweet whites are the pick. Great acid structure, intense fruit and elegance.

1990 Bonnezeaux La Chapelle Good to Very Good

Golden copper. Fully developed nose of toffee, molasses, caramel, liquorice, honey, cinnamon and cloves. Intense, rich and complex.
The palate is identical; spicy, with a medium length finish.
$37, 375mL

1998 Bonnezeaux La Chapelle Excellent

Closed nose. Intense palate of apricot fruit. Elegant; not overpowering. Perfect balance. Long finish.
$51, 750mL

1999 Bonnezeaux La Chapelle Very Good

Powerful but elegant. Toffee and peach.
$51, 750mL

1998 Coteaux du Layon Chaume Les Julines Excellent

Intense apricots on the nose and palate, with botrytis. Long.
$37, 500mL

99 Chateau de Chamboureau Savennieres Roche aux Moines Sec Excellent

Sweet, complex and intense nose of toasty boiled sweets. Long, fruity palate.

Marc Bredif

Respected producer in Vourvray with impressive rock cellars.

NV Bredif Brut Excellent

Intense, complex, yeasty and fruity with good length.
Value bubbles at $14.

1990 Nectar (Botrytised Chenin Blanc) Good +

Glowing golden. A complex nose is followed by a fruit driven palate with good structure and medium length. A good vintage with well-established botrytis; better than the 1996, which has less botrytis.

The 1986 Marc Bredif Vouvray Grande Annee (semi-sweet Chenin Blanc) had nice sweet dried apricots and good structure, but was musty and a bit tired.

Huet

Another top shelf Chenin Blanc producer in Vouvray. Only one label really stood out here.

1985 Le Mont (Moelleux Chenin Blanc) Excellent

Light golden yellow. A closed nose; holding its age incredibly.
The palate is complex, elegant and balanced, with hints of toffee.
$35